19.01.2004

Algeciras - the forgotten metropolis?

The city on the entrance to the strait of Gibraltar is known as a big sea port. Dirty and styleless.

“PARTY IN ALGECIRAS? NO thanks. It’s only a dirty sea port.” The main reaction to our idea of hanging out one evening in Algeciras and not in Tarifa as usual. Not that Tarifa hasn’t anything to offer, but some change to the well known scene is welcome.

There are not so many people doing the 20 km trip over the hill to make a stop in Algeciras. Too bad is the image of this town, people have in their mind. The suburbs of this port and industrial centre are extending on all sides, giving roof for about 100.000 people. The scenery is marked by multi-story buildings, industrial areas and supertankers. Paco de Lucia, the famous flamenco guitar player was born here. His monument can bee seen at the port entrance.

Algeciras is also the main port for Moroccan migrant workers, who drive home every year during their holidays. Half a million cross Spain in the six weeks from the end of June to the beginning of August in often perilously overloaded vehicles.

The night life of Algeciras can be found in the area of the Ruiz Zorilla. A lot of bars and some discos are offering good music and a relaxed atmosphere.

You can hang out to R&B, Ambient, Rock, Drum´n Bass and Tekknobeats. But people are going out late, between 2 and 8 o’clock you can have a good time. Once falling out of a disco or bar at 8 in the morning, you can use the day for a visit to Gibraltar, which occupies the far side of the bay.

When Franco closed the border with Gibraltar at La Linea, it was Algeciras that he decided to develop to absorb the Spanish workers formerly employed in the British naval dockyards, thus breaking the area's dependence on the Rock.

The old town has some very attractive corners which seem barely to have changed in fifty years, especially around the Plaza Alta. The number of people passing through also guarantees endless possibilities for food and drink.

The port area also has plenty of places to eat and a daily market at the Plaza Palma. The initial view of Algeciras might not be so inviting, but don’t be fooled by first impressions and for sure it wasn’t our last night expedition around the Ruiz Zorilla including some Sunday hangovers.